[Colombia] – The recipe for kebbe nayye by Antoine Floch from Agoradventure
As part of our Ursino project, each month we invite you to discover a traditional recipe shared by a chef, celebrity, or anonymous contributor.
Discovering a dish, its history, how it is eaten, and even the memories associated with it is precisely what our students around the world are doing.
On this basis, they conduct research to discover the origins of dishes and their ingredients.
The goal: for them to discover for themselves that our cultures, particularly our culinary cultures, have always been enriched by diversity and encounters between peoples.
This month,Antoine Floch,a traveling chef behind the Instagram account @Agoradventure, where he shares Japanese recipes and his experiences in Japan, took part in theUrsino questionnaire.
© 196 flavors
Tell us about a traditional recipe that is close to your heart.
A Lebanese recipe: kebbe nayye, a dish from my childhood.Both my parents are half Breton and half Lebanese. My father was born in Senegal and my mother grew up in Brazil. It was one of the dishes we would eat with our neighbors during celebrations in the village, and the next day we would cook the meat in meatballs.
Who prepared this dish? How was it passed down to you?
My mom used to make this dish. At home, cooking was always a family affair, so little by little we learned by doing.
What does this dish remind you of? Do you have any special memories or stories associated with it?
It reminds me of festive meals in the spirit of neighborhood potlucks. Everyone brings something. I grew up in the Cévennes in a small hamlet of 14 inhabitants, and my parents started this tradition.
We go shopping together, we prepare together, and the next day we all eat together.
Do you know of any other variations of this dish?
All versions of the dish are the same in my family. Often what changes are the spices; in some families, they add rose petals.Originally, the meat is goat or lamb.
There are also all the baked versions that we make the next day with onion and pine nut stuffing.
Things are done differently depending on the country (particularly depending on the climate). In Lebanon, it is impossible to use ground meat beyond the same day, even if it is prepared in the morning for the evening.
Does this dish seem rather old or recent to you? Which region do you think it comes from?
Quite old. It's not even originally Lebanese. It's found in Syria and Lebanon. Every family prepares it differently. It's quite unusual and not widely eaten outside Lebanon.
It requires a certain amount of logistics, especially on the part of the butcher. I don't think it's going to disappear, though.
Some sources say it is Syrian in origin, while others say that Lebanon created the version we know today.
How and when is this dish usually eaten?
Traditionally, it is a festive dish because it is a time when animals are slaughtered. It is served as part of a mezze alongside many other dishes. I am more familiar with it being served with wine or tea, but in Lebanon it can be consumed witharak.In Senegal, it was served with the three traditional green teas.
"In many countries, despite all our differences, it is cuisine that brings us together."
Are there any rituals associated with eating this dish?
Yes, every family has their own variations. When preparing the dish, we make small holes in the meat and add olive oil and mint.
Are there any other traditional dishes that you are keen to pass on to your loved ones?
My nephews and nieces no longer have much connection to Lebanon. I would like to introduce them to Japanese cuisine, French-Japanese cuisine, and French-Lebanese-Japanese cuisine.
What do you associate with cooking and mealtimes?
For me, it's my whole life, and I find it hard to understand why people don't devote more time to the pleasure of cooking and sharing through food. It creates social and cultural bonds. There aren't many cultural markers as powerful as cooking when it comes to bringing people together.
In many countries, despite all our differences, it is cuisine that brings us together. Creating an event around cuisine is the greatest human marker. We share the ability to create magic.
The recipe for kebbe nayye
Ingredients
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500 g lean beef (or pork)
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200 g fine bulgur wheat
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Spring onions
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Spices (cumin, ground coriander, salt, pepper)
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Ice cubes
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+ Olive oil, mint, and Lebanese bread for serving
1. Mince the meat very finely (put it through the mincer at least twice).
2. Soak the bulgur wheat the night before, squeeze it with your hands to remove the water, and mix it with the meat.
3. Add 2 ice cubes to the meat.
4. Add the spices, salt, and pepper.
5. Arrange in the dish (in our case, an oval dish) by making three grooves lengthwise with your finger and pour olive oil into the grooves.
6. Garnish with mint leaves on top.
Bonus
What is your Proustian madeleine?
Chicken with olives
Three guests you would like to invite to dinner?
Paul Bocuse (one of the reasons why I cook professionally and whom I admire greatly). Someone who works in fashion, Jean Paul Gauthier for example, so we could talk about what fashion is in physical and metaphysical terms. We would stay at the table until the early hours of the morning. AndAnne Sophie Pic, because I think she is a simple person who gives her all.
Can you recommend a restaurant?
Alinea in Chicago: an incredible experience. Everything is spectacular. Everything is incredible, and not just the food. The most incredible experience I've ever had in a restaurant.
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