As part of our Ursino project, each month we invite you to discover a traditional recipe shared by a chef, celebrity, or anonymous contributor.
Discovering a dish, its history, how it is eaten, and even the memories associated with it is precisely what our students around the world are doing.
On this basis, they conduct research to discover the origins of dishes and their ingredients.
The goal: for them to discover for themselves that our cultures, particularly our culinary cultures, have always been enriched by diversity and encounters between peoples.
Tell us about a traditional recipe that is close to your heart.
This is my mother's pie made with fresh and smoked salmon. You can add cream and eggs, as well as green vegetables (spinach, broccoli, etc.). A shortcrust pastry base holds the salmon in place. A puff pastry top makes it crispy and golden brown. It can be served hot or cold.
Who prepared this dish? How was it passed down to you?
My mother used to make this dish, and I would watch her do it. I think she was the one who added the smoked salmon. You often see salmon and spinach pies, but it was my mother who added the smoked salmon and broccoli.
What does this dish remind you of? Do you have any special memories or stories associated with it?
I am often away because I live in Nancy, but I travel a lot for work. When my mother makes this for me, she knows that it is truly my little Proust's madeleine. When I don't come home for a long time, she knows that it makes me happy.
Do you know of any other variations of this dish?
In Lorraine, our signature dish is pâté lorrain and tomatoes. The pâté is made with meat, pork loin, and veal. The tourte is the same thing but with migaine. But I prefer the tourte, it's even better because that's what gives it its sweetness.
Does this dish seem rather old or recent to you? Is it disappearing? Which region do you think it belongs to?
How and when is this dish usually eaten?
Rather on Sunday lunchtime with the family, with a nice green salad. It serves as a main course and we make large portions. We put crème fraîche on the hot pie. You can eat it with a good Alsace white wine (a Pinot Gris).
"Cooking is above all about passing on knowledge."
Are there any rituals associated with eating this dish?
I have a little personal ritual. There are often leftovers, and I love getting up in the night or after a movie to have another slice.
Are there any other traditional dishes that you are keen to pass on to your children?
It's a really simple dish, but I introduced it to the children: chique is a typical dish from Lorraine, made with potatoes roasted in small squares.
We make it with faisselle or bibeleskaes (Alsatian cheese) and add chives, garlic, shallots, salt, pepper, and a little crème fraîche.
It suits all tastes and all ages.
What do you associate with cooking and mealtimes?
Cooking is above all about passing on traditions. It's everything we learn from our parents or grandparents, and there's a strong emotional aspect to it. My mother makes a special sauce called Marie-Claude sauce. It's really touching, moving, and family-oriented. It's important because it gives people an identity and allows them to discover and share things with each other. The person cares deeply that we like what they're going to let us taste.
Recipe for two-salmon pie
Ingredients
- Shortcrust pastry
- Puff pastry
- Fresh salmon
- Smoked salmon
- 3 eggs
- Fresh cream
- Milk
- Salt
- Pepper
For the sauce
- Isigny fresh cream
- 1 whole lemon, juiced
1. Place a layer of shortcrust pastry in your dish.
2. Mix the diced fresh salmon and the smoked salmon strips.
3. Mix the eggs, 2/3 tablespoons of cream, a little milk, salt, and pepper to make a fairly thick mixture. Add cooked spinach or broccoli.
4. Cover with puff pastry sealed with egg wash.The pastry underneath should be thick enough so that it does not fall apart.
5. Bake at 180°C until the top of the pie is golden brown.
6. Serve witha red oak leaf lettuce salad or a curly lettuce salad (a slightly strong salad).
(For the salad dressing: 1 teaspoon mustard, 1 whole fjord, a little olive oil, salt and pepper, shallot, mild honey vinegar, you can add a little red wine vinegar)
7. Mix the Isigny crème fraîche and lemon juice, then pour the sauce over the pie just before serving.
Bonus
What is your Proustian madeleine?
It's a very strong memory. A Sunday evening at home so I didn't have to cook, hot chocolate made with real chocolate, and toast.
Three guests you would like to invite to dinner?
Pedro Almodóvar, Juliette Armanet, and Marilyn Monroe.
What is your favorite world food?
I would say Italian cuisine for its traditional appeal, but I could also have said Japanese cuisine for its meticulousness and expertise.
Can you recommend a restaurant?
L’Osteria Dell’Anima in Paris’s 11th arrondissement is a small, romantic restaurant that serves delicious fresh pasta.
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