[Colombia] – Esperanza's recipe for ajiaco
As part of our Ursino project, each month we invite you to discover a traditional recipe shared by a chef, celebrity, or anonymous contributor.
Discovering a dish, its history, how it is eaten, and even the memories associated with it is precisely what our students around the world are doing.
On this basis, they conduct research to discover the origins of dishes and their ingredients.
The goal: for them to discover for themselves that our cultures, particularly our culinary cultures, have always been enriched by diversity and encounters between peoples.
Tell us about a traditional recipe that is close to your heart.
It is a very traditional Colombian dish that comes mainly from Bogotá. It used to be THE Christmas dish a long time ago, although, with the influence of the United States, turkey is now often served. Today, some people say that it is a dish from all over Colombia, but no, it is actually originally a Bogotá dish.
This dish requires a lot of preparation.
Who prepared this dish? How was it passed down to you?
It was my mother and grandmother who prepared this dish. At the time, as in many families, we had "empleadas," domestic workers who did the cleaning, cooking, etc. For Christmas, the person who helped with the cooking stayed to help Mom prepare the
ingredients. But only my mother and grandmother were then allowed to prepare the ajiaco.
My parents arrived in Bogota right after they got married. My mother was obsessed with cooking, so she took cooking classes during the week when she first arrived here. Then on the weekends, she would cook with us! My father also started cooking a lot when he retired, especially bread and pastries, including almojabanas and pan de yuca, which are also typical of Colombia.
There are five of us girls, and we all love cooking. My mom really took the time to teach us how to cook.
What does this dish remind you of? Do you have any special memories or stories associated with it?
It reminds me of one Christmas when the housekeeper had everything ready to make ajiaco, and at 8 p.m. my mother realized she couldn't find the chicken! Back then, it was impossible to find chicken at the last minute like that! She always had chicken in the freezer, but it's not the same; it doesn't taste the same. Everyone cried with disappointment! It was awful! We had everyone at home, neighbors, friends... and everyone loved Rita's ajiaco. Passing on traditions and sharing were really important to my parents.
Do you know of any other variations of this dish?
There are two versions of ajiaco. The classic version and white ajiaco, which does not use yellow potatoes (dating back to the 1960s and earlier).
Depending on the region of Colombia, there are ajiacos that differ from the original recipe. Some add plantains or a little cassava, as in the Santander region, Huila, and perhaps on the coast.
Does this dish seem rather old or recent to you? Which region do you think it comes from?
It is a very old dish that has become so popular that it is now an everyday meal eaten throughout the country. It originally comes from Bogota. The traditional way of making it has undoubtedly changed.
Esperanza as a child
How and when is this dish usually eaten?
It's a festive dish. It's eaten with avocado, cream, capers, and rice. Some people put the rice in the ajiaco, but I prefer to serve it on the side.
The tradition is to then serve maracuya (passion fruit) mousse for dessert, accompanied by carob cream (juice from the carob tree mixed with milk). And if some people don't like maracuya mousse, you can also make carob mousse.
Alcoholic beverages are rarely consumed with ajiaco.
Perhaps refajo was once consumed? It was an aperitif made up of half beer and half "soda colombiana," but it has fallen out of favor.
And then there was also mistela, herbs macerated in molasses and then mixed with aguardiente (brandy), which was prepared for Saint John's Day. Even children drank it! It originated in Huila.
"On Sundays, the house was full. That's why I am the way I am, why I love to entertain and share, to trust everyone, with a smile!"
Are there any rituals associated with eating this dish?
Not really... We serve the ingredients separately and everyone puts what they want on their plate. However, we do use a special utensil called a pincho for the corn , which we stick into the corn cob to make it easier to eat. Then we eat the rest of the dish with a tablespoon and a fork.
Are there any other traditional dishes that you are keen to pass on to your loved ones?
Yes, I would love to share the cuisine of the Caribbean coast: coconut rice, arepitas de huevo, which I make with quail eggs... And posta cartagenera, meat that is cooked for a very long time, making it very tender. I had a housekeeper at one point who gave me her recipes, and my children love them!
Esperanza and her family
What do you associate with cooking and mealtimes?
For me, it representsthe sweet and tender childhood I had. Always talking about cooking, eating, las onces (snack time)... I remember las onces well! It was the moment at 5 p.m. when everyone got together. Everyone knew about "Rita'slas onces " (her mother's afternoon snack). It was a moment of sharing and generosity.
On Sundays, the house was always full. Sometimes there were 20 or 30 people! We always had guests.
That's why I am the way I am, why I love to entertain and share, to trust everyone, with a smile!
The recipe for ajiaco
Ingredients
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16 cups of water
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500 g yellow "criolla" potatoes
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1kg of pastusa potatoes
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750g of Sabaneras potatoes
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1.5kg of fairly large chicken breast, skin removed
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4 whole corn cobs cut into 3 pieces
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100g of "murillo" meat
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1 celery root
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3 long green onions
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4 cloves of garlic, minced
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1 bunch of guascas leaves
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1 bunch of cilantro
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1 bunch of celery
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salt and pepper to taste
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1.5 cups heavy cream, avocado, and capers to taste
1. Boil the chicken breast with the murillo meat, peeled and sliced potatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro, and celery (all thoroughly washed) for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2. Remove the vegetables when they are cooked (these ingredients are only used to give the soup flavor and form the basis for making broth).
3. Boil the sliced corn with the "sabaneras" potatoes, also peeled and sliced.
When they are cooked, add the "pastusas" and "criollas." Allow to thicken well.
4. Finally, add the guascas just before serving.
5. Serve piping hot with the shredded chicken in a serving dish. Everyone can help themselves to a bowl and add crème fraîche, avocado, and capers to taste.
Esperanza's parents
Bonus
What is your Proustian madeleine?
Corn fries! I remember my mom standing at the stove, carefully making them.
Three guests you would like to invite to dinner?
The ambassador's wife I worked for, Dana.
My mom, because she could see how I've grown as a cook!
And my granddaughter, Isabel. She loves it when I teach her how to cook!
What is your favorite world food?
French cuisine! I really enjoy myself when I go to France, especially with the crêpes. It makes me happy!
Can you recommend a restaurant?
A restaurant in Barcelona that I loved: "La Españolita."
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