As part of ourUrsino project, each month we invite you to discover atraditional recipesharedby a chef, a celebrity, or an anonymous contributor.
Discovering adish, itshistory, how it is eaten, and even thememoriesassociated withit is precisely what our students around the world do. On this basis, they conductresearchtodiscoverthe originsofdishes and their ingredients.

The goal: for them to discover for themselves that our cultures, particularly culinary cultures, have always been enriched by diversity andencounters between peoples.

You probably already know him, the one and only, the stylish, multicoloredUncle Freddy Chokoté.

You may have seen him on M6, with his brother Tonton Gaudrey, on the show "Qui veut être mon associé" (Who wants to be my partner?). He is also very active onLinkedIn, an unusual (and clearly very effective!) channel for promoting a restaurant. Their approach toAfrican cuisine—fresh, dynamic, and resolutely modern—was a hit. To open their restaurantLes Tontons Afro inLille, the first in what will be the first chain of African restaurants, they were looking for an investor, whom they found in Éric Larchevêque. And so the great adventure began!

Uncle Freddy, who trained at the hotel school in Le Touquet, is in charge (among other things) of the kitchen. And what a kitchen! He did us the honor and pleasure of granting us anUrsinointerview overa dish that is emblematic of Africa: mafé.

Enjoy your journey through African cuisine... and #sapology*!

*Sapology: The trademark of Les Tontons Afro: the art of dressing well by being daring and standing out.

Tell us about a traditional recipe that is close to your heart...

"It's a dish, a sauce, made withpeanut butter. In Cameroon, it's calledpeanut sauce, while in Senegal and Mali, it's calledmafé. I chose it because it's a dish that's found throughout sub-Saharan Africa. It contains tomatoes, onions, chili peppers...

It is usually served with rice. This is interesting because rice is very common in Africa, yet very little is grown there.

Basically, mafé isa dish that unites all countries in sub-Saharan Africa.

Who prepared this dish? How was it passed down to you?

"This dish reminds me of my mother. I saw how she prepared it, using the Cameroonian method, which makes it more liquid than elsewhere."

What does this dish remind you of? Do you have any special memories or stories associated with it?

"For me, peanut sauce is first and foremost a smell. It always started with my mother announcing that we were going to make the sauce. In our house, when we cook, we don't make a recipe for just one person—cooking is something to be shared! So it also reminds me of conviviality."

Photo credit: Uncle Freddy's Mafé –©FreddyChokoté

Does this dish seem rather old or recent to you? Is it disappearing? Which regiondo you think it belongsto?

"It's anancient dish. Senegal and Mali dispute its origin, but it's eaten everywhere in sub-Saharan Africa. It's far from disappearing!"

Do you know of any other variations of this dish? Or similar dishes in other countries or regions?

"In Cameroon, we addpeanut paste, water, spices, and tomatoes. Some people add more or less tomato. The most well-known version is made with beef, but it can also be made with chicken, smoked chicken, or smoked fish (bifaka, smoked herring). Some people add carrots. In Senegal, mafé is darker because it contains more peanut butter, and some people use palm oil (which has a red hue that colors the sauce)."

How and when is this dish usually eaten?

"It's not a festive dish. For example, at weddings in our country, there are large buffets. If there were mafé on the buffet, it certainly wouldn't be what I would choose! It's an everyday dish, aclassic. Even if there's no meat, you can eat it with smoked fish. When you make it with chicken, it's a dish of choice!"

As an anecdote, there is also a recipe in Cameroon called "Poulet DG" (Director General) because chicken was expensive! It is cooked with vegetables and plantains. I could have told you about that too, it's typical Cameroonian cuisine!

Are there any rituals associated with eating this dish?

"In Senegal, everyone eats from the same dish with a spoon. In Cameroon, everyone has their own plate. It really depends on the ethnic group. In the north of the country, everyone eats from the same dish too, with a spoon, sitting on the floor, regardless of social class. But they don't eat mafé there. In the south, everyone has their own plate.

There is still some "Westernization." In restaurants, everyone has their own plate. On the other hand, on the street, it's the old-fashioned way!

Are there any other traditional dishes that you are keen to pass on to your children?

"Yes! The ndole is a coastal dish that has become national. It consists of bitter leaves with vegetables, beef or shrimp, or both with crab (in which case it is called royalndole). It is served either with rice or with plantains (often steamed, otherwise fried) or cassava sticks.

Ethnic groups play an important role in Cameroon, so this inevitably influences the cuisine. A dish may be very well known in one ethnic group and completely unknown in another!

There is also the ndjapche, a typical dish of the Bamoun ethnic group, made withsissanleaves (black nightshade?) and pumpkin seeds. In fact, in Africa, we don't really know the scientific names of foods. For example, smoked fish is calledbifaka. I know it's herring because I just looked it up, before that I didn't even know, it was justbifaka. You don't go to the market and ask for smoked herring, no one will know what you're talking about! There are also foods that have other names. Pumpkin seeds, which are used in ndjapche, are called pistachios!

The plum has nothing to do with the French plum; it is actually a fruit called the safou.

And then there'scoffee! In Cameroon, when people say "let's go drink coffee," what they really mean is "let's have breakfast." It's important to note that Cameroon is Africa's largest coffee producer, yet very little coffee is consumed there. This is linked to colonialism, just like chocolate. It is sent back to Europe to be processed and then returned to Africa, where it is sold at very high prices.

What do you associate with cooking and mealtimes? Why do you think this is important in a culture or society?

"Ever since I was little, my path was clear. I wanted to be a chef. For me, cooking is a pleasure. I cook to make people happy. The purpose of my restaurant, Les Tontons Afro, is to make customers happy. And if the employees and customers are happy, then I'm happy.

And then there's THE phrase that everyone knows: "Mom... what's for dinner?" So for me, cooking is also about my mother. I don't understand why we praise Michelin-starred chefs and not moms who cook at home.

The recipe for Mafé

Ingredients:

    • 500 g chicken (skinless and boneless), cut into small pieces
    • 1 chopped onion
    • 1 hot pepper
    • 3 cloves of garlic, minced
    • 1 tablespoon of fresh grated ginger
    • 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
    • ½ teaspoon thyme
    • salt, pepper
    • 2 large tomatoes (about 16.5 oz), diced
    • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
    • 750 ml chicken broth
    • 1 medium sweet potato, cut into cubes
    • 2 carrots, sliced into rounds
    • 2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
    • ½ bunch of chopped parsley or cilantro

Steps:

    1. In a salad bowl, mix together the chicken pieces, onion, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
    2. Heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan and add the chicken pieces. Fry for about 5 minutes.
    3. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, chili pepper, paprika, thyme, salt, and pepper, and mix well.
    4. Cook until the onion is translucent.
    5. Add the puréed tomatoes, tomato paste, broth, and hot pepper, and mix everything together.
    6. Cover and simmer for about 20-30 minutes.

    Bonus

    What is your Proustian madeleine?

    Croissants! I'm a croissant expert. It has to be butter or nothing! Nice and flaky. It depends on my mood, there are lots of different kinds of croissants.

    Three guests you would like to invite to dinner?

    My parents and God.

    What is your favorite world food?

    I can't say Cameroon because it's notworld foodfor me. So I'll say China. It's quite close to home, really, with rice and all the spices!

    Can you recommend a restaurant?

    Le Barbier qui fume in Lille is my favorite steakhouse!

    If you're passing through northern France, go and see Uncle Freddy at his restaurant, Les Tontons Afro at 42 Rue de la Monnaie in Lille. Follow them on Instagram !

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