As part of ourUrsino project, each month we invite you to discover a traditional recipe shared by a chef, a celebrity, or an anonymous contributor.
Discovering a dish, its history, how it is eaten, and even the memories associated with it is precisely what our students around the world do. On this basis, they conduct research to discover the origins of dishes and their ingredients.
The goal: for them to discover for themselves that our cultures, particularly our culinary cultures, have always been enriched by diversity and encounters between peoples.
A proud Mallorcan with deep roots in his island heritage, Carlos Baos Martorell is the chef and owner of theMagratsrestaurant in Santa Ponça on the island of Mallorca in the Balearic Islands, Spain. He kindly shared with us the traditional recipe for gató, a delicious almond cake typical of Mallorca.
This cake, which has remained an original heritage of the island, is the result of a symbiosis between French cuisine and Mallorcan cuisine, which, with its many almond trees, provided the raw material.
Photo credit: Chef Carlos Baos Martorell
Who prepared this recipe? How was it passed on to you?
"This is my mother's recipe, which she got from my grandmother. It's a very old cake that's typical of the island. When I opened this restaurant, I was keen to have some typical Mallorcan recipes. So this cake was an obvious choice for me. It's been on the menu since the beginning, and I wouldn't take it off for anything in the world!"
What does this cake remind you of?
"It reminds me of my mother. It's a typical Christmas dessert. We used to eat it with a scoop of almond ice cream. In Spain, it's traditional to go for a walk after Christmas dinner and have a hot chocolate in town. Chocolaterías often serve a slice of gató or ensaimada with hot chocolate at this time of year.
Unfortunately, over time, the preparation process has become industrialized, and most of the gatós available today are not "real" gatós. Yeast is often added, which is much simpler than the old method, where you had to be very careful to gently fold the batter into the beaten egg whites without breaking them.
Does this dish seem old or new to you? Is it disappearing? Which region do you think it belongs to?
It's a very old, traditional Mallorcan recipe! Unfortunately, it's becoming very difficult to find real gató. It's said that this recipe, which contains no flour and only almond powder, is due to the fact that almonds were (and still are) found in abundance on the island. I wonder where the name comes from; it sounds like French. I know that in the past, people from the countryside only went down to the city of Palma to stock up on groceries once a month. But the inhabitants of the north of the island took boats and went to France. Maybe that's where it comes from? Otherwise, perhaps it's due to the many Mallorcans who lived in Algeria when it was French. "
Are you aware of any other variations of this dish?
"I know that some people add cinnamon to gató."
What would you recommend serving this dessert with?
Traditionally, it is served with hot chocolate (editor's note: Spanish chocolate, which is very thick), but I would recommend enjoying it with a small glass of cava (Catalan champagne) [laughs]!
Are there any other traditional dishes that you are keen to pass on to your nieces and nephews?
Mallorca's cuisine is particularly rich and varied. So many peoples have passed through our region that there are influences from all over the world! But since we are an island, our own culinary traditions have remained right here with us. Our culinary traditions are still very much alive. I'm thinking in particular of our famous sobrasada (a type of spreadable chorizo made from lean pork and paprika). I particularly like ensaïmada (a typical sweet pastry) with sobrasada for its sweet and savory combination! "
What do you associate with cooking and mealtimes? Why do you think this is important in a culture or society?
"For me, cuisine is important in society because it brings us together and helps us socialize. These are moments when we eat and talk. And when you travel, it's also a way to discover the country you're visiting. You discover the origin of the products, what is grown there... Cuisine is the roots of a country, of a culture."
The recipe for Majorcan Gató
Ingredients:
- 400 g of ground almonds or whole blanched almonds, which you will blend
- 400 g white sugar
- 9 eggs
- 1 lemon zest
Steps:
- Blend the almonds if necessary (without roasting them).
- Separate the whites from the yolks.
- Beat the egg yolks with the almond powder, sugar, and lemon zest.
- Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.
- Gently fold the previous mixture into the beaten egg whites with a spatula, working from the bottom up and taking care not to break the egg whites.
- Line a baking pan, or butter and flour it before pouring in the batter.
- Cover and bake for about 1 hour at 160°C.
This cake can easily be stored for a week to ten days and tastes even better with a scoop of almond ice cream!
Here's a little tip: Chef Carlos decorates his plates with melted white chocolate mixed with a little heavy cream. It's not traditional, but it's delicious!
Bonus
What is your Proustian madeleine?
Oh, there are so many! Sopa mallorquina, for starters. It's a "dry" soup with thin slices of black bread made from buckwheat (pa moreno) that absorbs the liquid from the soup, which is more like a kind of pot-au-feu. And then there are stuffed eggplants, just like my mother used to make. You can't find them anywhere like that anymore!
If you were to invite three people to dinner, who would they be?
Oh my, that's quite philosophical! I have no idea. But my dad does, that's for sure!
What is your favorite world food?
Mexican cuisine, definitely, and Asian cuisines too.
Can you recommend a restaurant?
It's difficult... What I like is eating where you can buy fresh fish directly from the fisherman. What a treat!
If you're passing through Mallorca, go and see Carlos at his restaurant in Malgrats, Avinguda del Rei Jaume I, 78 in Santa Ponça.
Don't forget to order a slice of gató for dessert!
Follow him on Instagram !